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Monday, 4 March 2013

Morgan M

This weekend my parents were in town, and that means being taken out for an amazing meal, and amazing this place was...
Morgan M, a fine French eatery is a bright little place in the heart of Smithfield. Bleach-blonde wood floors, spotlights and fresh cream paint on the walls, this place is modern but not too cutting edge. 
The maître d' was a little bit pretentious and could have done with smiling more, but the other waitresses were extremely pleasant and genuine and made us feel completely at ease. 
We began with some delicious peach champagne aperitifs... 

We were served our amuse-bouche of tiny cauliflower florets in a silky bath of cauliflower soup (poured for us from dainty silver jugs). 

 My poor Dad hurt his hand a few weeks ago, so he was sporting the suave sling look. Lucky it didn't affect his paying arm...

My sister opted for the chunky Game Terrine with Pickled Vegetables, Apple Chutney and Toasted Pain Poilâne. 

The Ravioli of Snails in Chablis, Garlic Froth and Red Wine Jus entertained Dad's taste buds...

But this, this has to be one of the best starters I have ever eaten. Crayfish and Lobster Cannelloni with Tarragon,  Jerusalem Artichoke Soubise (an onion, butter and beef broth) and Shellfish 'Cappuccino'. Bursting with flavour, yet so light and beautifully balanced this was a favourite on the table. If you go to Morgan M, go soon and have this.

There were probably some other starters going on, but honestly I was so consumed with the exquisite splendour of my own creation that I didn't notice until everything was licked clean from my plate.
I was wetting myself with excitement when the main courses came,  because the only shortcoming of my divine little starter was that it was just that... too little! It was cruel to give me such a sensible portion with no promise of more. 
Quite lucky really then that my main course was almost, almost as good as its predecessor. 
Pave of Turbot 'au lait', Poêlée of Crêpes and Trompette, Mushroom Raviolo, Fondu of Leeks and Noilly Prat Sauce (which is made from a type of vermouth of the same name). 

This dish was delicate, buttery and an extremely subtle blend of flavours. Truly magical food.

They gave us a slight variation from the menu, as game season is over (apparently!) So Tomasz was served Oven-Roasted Rabbit, brushed with Liver and Chestnut, the leg braised with Raisins, Glazed Pear and Bread Sauce, with amusing bows of spinach leaves to smarten the dish up even more. 

My Mum had the Pot Roasted Fillet of Beef, Cream of Parsley Root, Pomme Poivre and Red Wine Jus. I didn't get to try this one, but I was assured of it's quality from the yummy noises coming from the other end of the table.

The only teensie negative thing I might say is that we were obliged to order our pudding with our starter and main course. As this is not usual protocol I found it a little pushy and it flustered me a little (oh how hard done by I am!) So I ended up choosing something I might not have had I been able to peruse at my leisure after my meal. 
We were offered gorgeous little Piña Colada pre-desserts (I never thought I'd use that word, but what a wonderful concept). 
Brandy-Snap Cones full of Rice Pudding, topped with scoops of Coconut Sorbet and bathed in ice cold Pineapple Syrup. Delightful.

And to end, the Blueberry and Pistachio Soufflé with Blueberry Sorbet and a Pistachio Crème Anglaise. Although it looked like a work of art, and with a perfect texture, I wasn't keen on the flavour of this unfortunately. Everyone else had cheese selections, but if I had my time again I would be inclined to try their Roasted Banana with Salted Caramel. 

Still, the meal was sublime. Sometimes a little frostiness from the maître d', but exceptional food that I cannot recommend enough. I will not tell you how much the bill came to, but let's not call it cheap...

Their website is here. Book on pay day, enjoy the food for one night only and hang the cost. Life is for the living. 

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